In 1924, a company named Julius Garfinkle & Co created a perfume named Heaven Sent, however, this was in no way connected with the well known Heaven Sent perfume.
Heaven-Sent (also spelled as Heaven Scent) was originally sold by Helena Rubinstein in 1941, some say 1936, but 1936 was the year her perfume Apple Blossom was released. Heaven Sent was developed by Helena Rubinstein's chief chemist and technical director, Dr. Stephen A. Karas, who also created the Apple Blossom perfume, according to his obituary.
The promotion for the Heaven-Sent line began in January 1940, fifteen months before it appeared on the market. Since the last promotion had been for Apple Blossom, Helena Rubinstein decided to make this one “not a floral odor but a subtle blending.” In the next few months she sniffed and rejected over 800 odors, from oil houses to her own laboratory til she finally fixed on one. According to her admiring employees, it was Rubinstein who exclaimed “What a heavenly scent,” thus suggesting the name which finally came out Heaven-Sent.
The Heaven-Sent line included eau de parfum mist, eau de toilette, cologne, soap on a rope, bath oil, dusting powder, solid perfume compact and gift sets.
The next step was to get a general decorative motif. For the colors of the presentation, she chose pink, blue and white. Beginning with the cologne bottle, she called in a bottle manufacturer and asked him to design a bottle suggestive of the female figure, but “with a light feeling.” When the prototype came back, she made two changes, putting pleats in the skirt and adding a round stopper to suggest a head. For the scented soap, she chose a cake in the form of a puffy pink cloud, with white raised angels on the surface. She then directed an artist to work on the boxes, which were to feature figures of angels. The first design was rejected, because it had plain angels, it was too austere and finally settled on a pattern of angels and clouds.
Heaven-sent was then ready and she turned her attention to what she did best, marketing. The campaign was brilliantly launched on March 31, when 500 pink and blue balloons with the Heaven-Sent angel motif were dropped from the roof of Bonwit Teller’s store, each with a wicker basket containing a vial of cologne and the message “Out of the Blue to You.” This was very successful and as a result several hundred women filled Fifth Avenue to grab for the balloons as they made their airy descent.
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women with a woody-mossy-leafy base.
In the 50's the company was purchased by Mem who released Heaven Sent as an eau de cologne. They eventually quit making it due to sales not meeting quotas.
A New Dana predecessor company paid millions for the Heaven Sent trademark, which was originally registered by Helena Rubinstein Inc. in 1987.
All of the versions made after 1980 were severely changed from the original 1950s-1970s era versions and do not smell the same as the original Helena Rubinstein formula.
Heaven Sent was one of the first products to use a pop song in their advertising campaigns. It featured Donovan's "Wear Your Love Like Heaven'" in 1968. This song was created by Buddy Weed for Heaven Sent perfumes.
According to a 1990 article in Cosmetics International :
In the 1980s, Dana reformulated it and put it back on the market again due to high demand. Today, you can find Dana's version in lotion, light cologne, eau de parfum, shower gel and dusting powder. This too does not smell the same as the original Helena Rubinstein formula.
Dana's newest reformulated version came out in 2001, created by Loc Dong. This lively scent is described as a refined, spicy, lavender, amber fragrance suggested for evening use. Again, this does not smell the same as the original Helena Rubinstein formula.
MEM and Dana both released Heaven Sent Vanilla in 1994. It has a lot of the same notes as Heaven Sent, but the green fragrance is made sweeter by the inclusion of vanilla.
MEM and Dana both released Heaven Sent Musk, you can find this in a light cologne, eau de parfum and body spray.
Dana also released Heaven Sent Gardenia which comes in a body spray, light cologne and eau de parfum. I don't have any actual note for these two perfumes, the notes provided on discount perfume websites list the notes for regular Heaven Sent. I believe that these came out around 1994 when the Vanilla version was released.
Perfumery impressions...
Helena Rubinstein's Version:
Heaven-Sent (also spelled as Heaven Scent) was originally sold by Helena Rubinstein in 1941, some say 1936, but 1936 was the year her perfume Apple Blossom was released. Heaven Sent was developed by Helena Rubinstein's chief chemist and technical director, Dr. Stephen A. Karas, who also created the Apple Blossom perfume, according to his obituary.
The promotion for the Heaven-Sent line began in January 1940, fifteen months before it appeared on the market. Since the last promotion had been for Apple Blossom, Helena Rubinstein decided to make this one “not a floral odor but a subtle blending.” In the next few months she sniffed and rejected over 800 odors, from oil houses to her own laboratory til she finally fixed on one. According to her admiring employees, it was Rubinstein who exclaimed “What a heavenly scent,” thus suggesting the name which finally came out Heaven-Sent.
The Heaven-Sent line included eau de parfum mist, eau de toilette, cologne, soap on a rope, bath oil, dusting powder, solid perfume compact and gift sets.
The next step was to get a general decorative motif. For the colors of the presentation, she chose pink, blue and white. Beginning with the cologne bottle, she called in a bottle manufacturer and asked him to design a bottle suggestive of the female figure, but “with a light feeling.” When the prototype came back, she made two changes, putting pleats in the skirt and adding a round stopper to suggest a head. For the scented soap, she chose a cake in the form of a puffy pink cloud, with white raised angels on the surface. She then directed an artist to work on the boxes, which were to feature figures of angels. The first design was rejected, because it had plain angels, it was too austere and finally settled on a pattern of angels and clouds.
Heaven-sent was then ready and she turned her attention to what she did best, marketing. The campaign was brilliantly launched on March 31, when 500 pink and blue balloons with the Heaven-Sent angel motif were dropped from the roof of Bonwit Teller’s store, each with a wicker basket containing a vial of cologne and the message “Out of the Blue to You.” This was very successful and as a result several hundred women filled Fifth Avenue to grab for the balloons as they made their airy descent.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women with a woody-mossy-leafy base.
- Top notes: neroli, mandarin, bergamot, orange oil, lemon oil and spearmint
- Middle notes: lily of the valley, carnation, ylang-ylang and rose
- Base notes: vetiver, patchouli, amyris oil, benzoin, oak moss, sandalwood and musk
In the 1980s, some bottles with labels marked "Heaven Scent" may have an additional label stating "Made in England by Liberty Cosmetics Ltd. Under licence from Helena Rubinstein. Sole UK Distributor, Liberty Cosmetics Ltd, SW4 7ET."
In 1990, Helena Rubinstein launched three celestial themed perfume flankers, Heaven Sent Angel, Heaven Sent Moon, and Heaven Sent Star.
MEM's Version:
In the 50's the company was purchased by Mem who released Heaven Sent as an eau de cologne. They eventually quit making it due to sales not meeting quotas.
A New Dana predecessor company paid millions for the Heaven Sent trademark, which was originally registered by Helena Rubinstein Inc. in 1987.
All of the versions made after 1980 were severely changed from the original 1950s-1970s era versions and do not smell the same as the original Helena Rubinstein formula.
"Suddenly, there's a heavenly fragrance that clings
It's Heaven Sent
Suddenly, she's an imp wearing angel wings
In Heaven Sent
Suddenly, she is all of the things that you want to be
A little bit naughty, but heavenly
In Heaven Sent".
According to a 1990 article in Cosmetics International :
"MEM Company has announced a major new repackaging and advertising support campaign for its Heaven Sent fragrance line...MEM manufactures and markets the Heaven Sent line of women's fragrance items in the USA and Canada and it owns the distribution rights in Puerto Rico and elsewhere in the Western Hemisphere primarily in South America...Heaven Sent a brand it acquired a number of years ago but created in the early 1940s and thus in need of a major shift in packaging and advertising. This is being targeted to reach an older audience than the 18 to 24 year olds previously targeted. The brand's U.S. advertising budget is being doubled in 1990 with a romantic theme of' Heaven Sent moments' throughout the campaign with the tag line "The day was Heaven Sent and so was her fragrance". MEM believes that the campaign will reach 60 per cent of all fragrance users with a major print ad promotion to support a July relaunch."
Dana's Version:
In the 1980s, Dana reformulated it and put it back on the market again due to high demand. Today, you can find Dana's version in lotion, light cologne, eau de parfum, shower gel and dusting powder. This too does not smell the same as the original Helena Rubinstein formula.
Dana's newest reformulated version came out in 2001, created by Loc Dong. This lively scent is described as a refined, spicy, lavender, amber fragrance suggested for evening use. Again, this does not smell the same as the original Helena Rubinstein formula.
- Top notes: Italian bergamot, apple blossom, mandarin
- Middle notes: lily of the valley, lavender, red rose, iris, jasmine and heliotrope
- Base notes: patchouli, opoponax, amber, oak moss, sandalwood and musk
MEM and Dana both released Heaven Sent Vanilla in 1994. It has a lot of the same notes as Heaven Sent, but the green fragrance is made sweeter by the inclusion of vanilla.
- Top notes: Italian bergamot, apple blossom, mandarin
- Middle notes: orange blossom, lily of the valley, lavender, red rose, iris, jasmine and heliotrope,
- Base notes: vanilla, patchouli, opoponax, amber, oakmoss, sandalwood and musk
MEM and Dana both released Heaven Sent Musk, you can find this in a light cologne, eau de parfum and body spray.
Dana also released Heaven Sent Gardenia which comes in a body spray, light cologne and eau de parfum. I don't have any actual note for these two perfumes, the notes provided on discount perfume websites list the notes for regular Heaven Sent. I believe that these came out around 1994 when the Vanilla version was released.
Irma Shorell's Version:
Irma Shorell, Inc. (Long Lost Perfumes) produced their version of Heaven Sent which they called "Infinite Grace". However, many reviews I have read state that it really doesn't smell anything like the original Heaven Sent perfume by Helena Rubinstein.
- Top notes: bergamot, mandarin, neroli, spearmint, orange oil and lemon oil
- Middle notes: lily of the valley, carnation, geranium, rose and ylang-ylang
- Base notes: sandalwood, vetiver, amyris oil, musk, patchouli, vanilla, benzoin, oakmoss and myrrh
Perfumery impressions...
"Rich,woody-floral and warm. Deep and sensual right from the top, with classical florals carrying you down to the full-bodied base with only the briefest of stops in the top notes. Beautiful and basey...the core of a woman who knows...not for the timid." - Jeffrey Dame"
Final Verdict:
Helena Rubinstein's version was soft, fresh, and baby powdery with hints of jasmine, after 1980, Dana's ends up being too fruity and less powdery. After 1980, Mem's version does not the smell the same as Helena Rubinstein's. Many reviews I have read on Irma Shorell's "Infinite Grace" state that it really doesn't smell *anything* like the original Heaven Sent perfume by Helena Rubinstein.
Thank you very much for the helpful post.
ReplyDeleteLynn
What a shame it is gone. I wore Heaven Scent all through my teenage years in the 1960s and loved it. Could someone please bring it back.
ReplyDeleteSame here...
DeleteWhy are they using the same name for something so different...
The best Christmas gift I ever got was when I was a young teenager in the late 60's. My father gave me a small gold compact with a green rhinestone on it. Inside was solid Heaven Scent perfume. I wore that fragrance until they stopped making it. I have NEVER smelled anything as marvelous as the original scent by Helena Rubenstein. I bought the Dana one but returned it because it wasn't even remotely the same. PLEASE bring the original formula back. I am sure they would have plenty of buyers if they did.
ReplyDeleteI agree...
DeleteThey did themselves a dis-service by changing it!��
I had the same compact version. It was my first perfume love! So glad you wrote about this because I hadn’t seen the solid compact version mentioned anywhere!
Delete